The world of gemstones is a complex one, and simple labels like “real” or “fake” are seldom enough. Most natural gemstones in the market today are treated and enhanced, but this in no way means that they are not genuine. And while lab-made gemstones are 100% synthetic, that also does not mean that they are “fake”.
Certifications of authenticity from reputed laboratories can help clear the air around this so that you can navigate the enthralling world of gemstones without deception. Keep reading to learn more about the certification and authenticity of gemstones.
What Is an Authentic Gemstone?
The Gemological Institute of America states that any gemstone, whether natural or lab-made, can be classified as “real” if it contains a mineral makeup identical to that which appears in nature. This means that a lab-grown diamond (CVD), for example, is just as “real” as a natural one, but at the same time, it cannot be called natural. In a general sense, gemstones can be classified as follows.
1. Natural Gemstones
Natural gemstones are those that are formed organically under the Earth’s surface over millions of years and are mined, cut, and polished for use. These include precious gemstones like diamonds, rubies (manik), emeralds (panna), hessonite (gomed), blue sapphires (neelam), and yellow sapphires (pukhraj). Semi-precious gemstones like garnets, tourmalines, aquamarines, opals, hessonites, and cat’s eye chrysoberyls are also natural gemstones. Natural gemstones are made up of specific types of mineral crystals and earthy minerals, which contribute to their structure and colour.
More often than not, natural gemstones contain inclusions of other minerals, liquids, or gases. Common treatments like thermal enhancements do not change their composition or alter their structural integrity. It is helpful to note that treated gemstones are not the same as synthetic or simulated gemstones. Any treated gemstone can be considered natural as long as it is mined from the Earth and not made in a laboratory.
2. Synthetic Gemstones
Synthetic gemstones are grown in laboratories under controlled conditions. They can be called real because their mineral composition is 100% identical to that of naturally occurring gemstones. These gemstones come with inclusions that depend on the method used and the conditions under which they are grown. Common treatments like thermal enhancement or surface polishing do not change their mineral composition.
3. Simulated Gemstones
Sometimes certain crystals or glass pieces are passed off as gemstones because of their appearance – which may be similar or identical to more valuable natural gemstones. These include spinel (passed off as ruby), and cubic zirconia (passed off as diamond) – which by themselves are authentic stones, but can be considered simulants when passed off as other, more precious gemstones. This is usually done by unethical and often lesser-known traders in order to make a quick buck.
A gemstone is only as authentic as the trader selling it, and an ethical gemstone trader will properly disclose the physical and chemical characteristics of the gemstone, to the best of his/her knowledge. This is where a certificate of authenticity from a gemmology lab comes into play.
What Is a Certificate of Authenticity?
A certificate of authenticity is a document issued to a specific gemstone that states the physical and chemical characteristics of a gemstone. These are issued by renowned laboratories and can provide buyers with all the essential information about the gemstone they are purchasing. The accuracy and detail that a certificate can provide, depend on the level of testing technology and expertise available at the lab.
A certificate of authenticity can be procured from ISO-certified or other international labs across India. Such certificates usually describe the mineral family of the stone, its carat weight, colour, shape and cut, dimensions, and refractive index. They may also comment on any treatments that the gemstone may have undergone.
A detailed certificate includes information about the optical behaviour of the gemstone, such as transparency and optic character, present inclusions, and even the country or region it was mined from. Detailed certificates of authenticity can be procured from internationally renowned institutions such as the International Gemological Institute (IGI) or The Gemological Institute of America (GIA). GIA and IGI certificates are internationally recognised and accepted, and provide detailed testing reports on most varieties of gemstones.
Testing with state-of-the-art technologies that offer the highest levels of accuracy can also be done by premium research labs such as Gübelin or GRS. But such testing costs thousands of dollars and is reserved only for the best quality specimens, which themselves cost a fortune.
Renowned Certification Labs
Gübelin Gem Lab
The Gübelin Gem Lab is said to be the premier research laboratory for gemstones and jewellery in the world. Its founder, Eduard Gübelin was a pioneering figure in the field of gemology. His passion for gems propelled him to become one of the most important gemologists of his time and his contributions have left an indelible mark on the industry. The Gübelin Gem Lab primarily serves clientele in Europe but works with an international clientele as well. It has a rich history and dedicated staff and makes use of the best technology for testing. The costs of their reports start from $250 and may go up to $2400, and even beyond for some specimens.
Figure 1: A sample Gübelin report on a Colombian Emerald
GRS
Established in 1996 by Dr. A. Peretti, a distinguished gemologist and geologist known for numerous mineralogy discoveries, GemResearch SwissLab AG specialises in identifying and characterising high-quality colored gemstones from new as well as classic mining regions. They excel in colour grading and brandings, such as the famous GRS-type Pigeon's Blood rubies and Royal Blue sapphires. With labs in Hong Kong, New York, Bangkok, and Switzerland, GRS Lab provides global expertise in gem research and testing. Their prices are available at request on their website.
Figure 2: A sample GRS report on a Tourmaline
Swiss Gemological Institute (SSEF)
The SSEF testing lab at the Swiss Gemological Institute in Europe is a new, but highly reputable and reliable gemstone testing laboratory. In a relatively short span of time, the lab has pioneered very important research testing methodologies within the diffusion identification process in sapphires. The costs of their reports start from $330 and may go up to $4900, and even beyond for some specimens.
Figure 3: A sample SSEF report on a Diamond
Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
As one of the oldest and most well-known gemstone experts in the world, the GIA has been in operation since 1931. They are a leading authority on gemstones, diamonds, and pearls, and are also one of the premier institutes of gemstone and jewellery education. GIA’s detailed gemstone testing is known for its accuracy but is usually reserved only for high-quality specimens due to the high cost involved. The cost for a regular test report from GIA starts from $48 and can go up to $3200 and beyond, depending on the carat weight of a stone. Detailed origin reports start from $75 and can go beyond $5000.
Figure 4: A sample GIA report on a Diamond
International Gemological Institute (IGI)
The International Gemological Institute (IGI) is a distinguished name in the gemstone industry. It operates 20 laboratories worldwide that grade finished jewelry, natural diamonds, lab-grown diamonds, and colored gemstones. IGI also operates 14 schools of gemmology that produce thousands of jewelry professionals annually. Gemstone certification and reports by IGI are highly accurate and reliable and are recognized across the world.
Figure 5: A sample IGI report on a Burmese Ruby
SGL Labs
SGL Labs is a British-American gemstones and jewelry certification and authentication laboratory network. With 158 geo-footprints across 5 countries, including India, it is one of the fastest-growing international laboratory networks that is committed to providing convenient testing services and gemstone certification for its clients.
Figure 6: A sample SGL report on a Diamond-studded, Gold ring
Gemmological Institute of India (GII)
The Gemmological Institute of India (GII) is a non-profit Public Charitable Trust, established in 1971. GII provides gemstone certification and is one of the most trusted gemstone institutes in India with rock-solid credibility in the research and testing of gemstones and diamonds.
Figure 7: A sample GII report on a Ruby sculpture
Geological Survey of India (GSI)
The Geological Survey of India is a governmental organisation and central authority when it comes to up-to-date information on the geological information of the country. GSI provides gemstone certification through mineralogical reports from non-destructive analysis of gemstones that detail the gemstone’s physical and optical constants along with internal inclusion patterns.
Bellerophon Gemlab S.A.S.
Bellerophon Gemlab S.A.S. is a gemstone auction house and gemological laboratory in France. Bellerophon Gemlab is known for its high-quality modern approach and transparent processes. To ascertain to customers that no modifications have been made to the gemstone, Bellerophon Gemlab delivers authentication videos for all specimens. They also perform 3D scans on the gemstone. The 3D scan files can be shared with jewellers to help them make precise measurements. Bellerophon uses Blockchain Technology for mine-to-market traceability for all of its reports. For reports, prices start at $124 and can be obtained in as little as 48 hours.
Figure 8: A sample Bellerophon certificate on a Ruby
Lotus Gemology
Established in Thailand, Lotus Gemology is a well-known name in gemstones. They provide gemstone identification, treatment identification, and origin determination for gemstones. Their basic reports start at $100 and identification reports for premium gemstones cost about $300. Special reports for exclusive gemstones can cost as much as $430.
Figure 9: A sample Lotus Gemology gem certificate
Other Local Laboratories
In addition to being one of the top exporters of cut and finished gemstones, India is a huge marketplace for gemstones as well. As such, it has local testing laboratories in most major cities. Gemstone testing from a reliable lab in India can cost from a few hundred rupees to thousands ($5 to $100).
Some reliable Indian testing labs are:
- Indian Gemmological Institute - Gem Testing Laboratory (IGI-GTL), a 40-year-old gemstone lab backed by the Indian Ministry of Commerce & Industry, is known for its accuracy. Every gemstone certified by IGI-GTL undergoes rigorous scientific tests using advanced equipment.
- Kolkata Gem Testing Laboratory (KGTL) is another recognised name that offers gemstone testing and provides detailed reports.
- Shri Zaveri Mahajan Zaverat & Moti Tolai Charitable Trust is popular for the certification of pearls and is a trusted authority, based out of Mumbai. Their expertise in testing and examining various types of pearls has earned them recognition both in the Indian market and abroad.
Which Certificate Should My Gemstone Have?
When it comes to gemstone testing, there are several options. Reports can cost as low as $5, and go up to $2,000 and beyond. The latter price spectrum should be explored by buyers only in the case of heirloom gemstones of the highest quality. For good to decent-quality gemstones, reliable testing from labs such as IGI, GII, or SGL is sufficient, and for semi-precious stones and gemstones of relatively lower value, local lab certifications are sufficient.
How Can I Tell if My Gemstone Is Real?
While some gemstone novices say that “authentic-looking” and “deep-hued gemstones” with high clarity are indicative of authenticity, others say that the presence of inclusions is a sure way to say that a gemstone is authentic. This is true to a very limited extent as gemstones like blue and yellow sapphire, aquamarines, spinels, and tourmalines display vibrant hues and characteristic striations while real opals showcase a play-of-colour, along with natural inclusions. Gemstones like hessonite exhibit honey to reddish-brown tones and natural inclusions, while genuine cat's eye gemstones display a distinct chatoyancy effect. Nothing but the expertise of a reputable retailer or a professional assessment with a gem certificate from a reputable lab can assure you of a gemstone’s authenticity.
Where Can I Buy Authentic Natural Gemstones Online in India?
At Precious Earth, we are 4th generation of authentic natural gemstone sellers based in India. We deliver quality gemstones all across India. We place the trust and convenience of our customers above all else. All our gemstones come with certificates of authenticity from reputable gemstone labs and gemologists that disclose all the essential details of a gemstone such as its physical and chemical characteristics, and details of treatment, if any. Along with our lifetime returns and exchanges policy, we also provide detailed reports for our certified gemstones from GIA, IGI, GII, and other reputed certification labs - so that you can rest assured that your purchase at Precious Earth is completely genuine and authentic.
