Gemstones, ranging from the tranquil blue of sapphires to the fiery red of rubies, never cease to evoke a profound sense of admiration within us. The gemstone market today, however, is highly fragmented, with most establishments run by local mom-and-pop stores. Inevitably, due to a mostly unorganized industry dynamic, the markets are oftentimes flooded with a plethora of synthetic and imitation gemstones and it has become increasingly crucial for consumers to have the ability to discern a gemstone’s authenticity.
Understanding the distinctions between natural, genuine, and synthetic gemstones is the first step in navigating this realm. Natural gemstones are formed over millions of years through the earth's natural geological processes, resulting in their exceptional beauty and rarity. Treated gemstones, although natural and authentic, undergo certain types of treatments and enhancements such as heating to improve their colour or scintillation, and they may also be labelled as "genuine" or "treated" stones. On the other hand, synthetic gemstones, also known as artificial, lab-grown, or man-made gems, are created in laboratories and possess identical chemical and physical properties to their natural counterparts. As such, an understanding of what exactly constitutes a “natural” gem is crucial in determining whether or not a particular gem is genuine.
Throughout this article, we will explore various factors that can aid in determining a gemstone's authenticity. From visual factors and pricing considerations to assessing seller credibility, certifications, and the use of specialized tools by experts, we will cover all aspects that can empower you to make informed decisions. Whether you have your sights set on investing in exquisite fine jewellery or simply a desire to immerse yourself in the beauty of coloured gemstones, this guide is here to serve as your trusted resource to navigate the world of gemstones.
1. Explore Similar-Looking Gem Species
The very first step in determining the authenticity of a gemstone is to familiarize yourself with gemstone varieties that look alike – to ensure that you can discern their unique qualities and find precisely what you desire. While each gemstone possesses its distinct characteristics, there are instances where different stones may bear a striking resemblance to one another.
For example, the ruby is among the most popular red-coloured gemstones – however, other stones share similarities in appearance. Natural red spinels bear a striking resemblance to the ruby, and also serve as an affordable alternative. Similarly, for blue-coloured gemstones, the blue sapphire claims the spotlight, but Tanzanite serves as a very similar-looking alternative with its deep blue tones.
A Ruby (left) looks very similar to a Red Spinel (right) which is a relatively cheaper gem (Source: Ellie Thompson + Co.)
As such, to broaden your gemstone knowledge, it's recommended to conduct online research. Explore the finest gemstones in various categories and familiarize yourself with their unique characteristics. Utilizing gemstone identification charts is also highly beneficial. These charts provide valuable insights into essential properties such as colour and hardness, enabling you to distinguish between different gemstones accurately. By leveraging these resources, you can enhance your understanding and make well-informed decisions when it comes to gemstone identification.
2. A Visual Assessment of Gems
Visual assessment is a key technique in the art of judging gemstones, involving a careful examination of various factors such as colour, clarity, transparency, and inclusions. One effective approach is to observe a collection of stones of the same type and colour side by side, allowing for a comparative analysis to identify the most exceptional gem among them.
When it comes to evaluating the colour of a gemstone, it holds significant importance in determining its authenticity and value to help you make informed judgments. Let's explore 2 examples: rubies and sapphires.
Rubies display a wide range of red hues, and while the highly coveted "pigeon's blood" red is considered the ideal colour, it's important to acknowledge that authentic rubies can exhibit variations. Alongside the deep red hue, rubies may have undertones of purple, orange, or brown, which are still authentic and desirable. While the pigeon's blood colour is often associated with Burmese rubies from Mogok, it is exceptionally rare, and some rubies from Madagascar and Mozambique have also been described using this term.
Rubies can range from a Light Pink tone to a deep and uniformly saturated red.
Similarly, blue sapphires can span a spectrum of colours, from light blue to deep navy blue. However, the most sought-after blue sapphires boast a rich and vivid blue colour with excellent clarity. The specific hue of blue sapphires can vary based on their geographic origin. Sri Lankan sapphires are known for their bright and saturated blue colour, while Burmese sapphires tend to exhibit a darker shade. Kashmir Neelam stones, recognized for their silky smooth cornflower blue colour, are exceedingly rare.
Each gemstone possesses a unique colour range influenced by factors like origin, trace elements, and geological conditions. When evaluating gemstones, considering colour alongside other factors allows for a comprehensive assessment.
Blue Sapphires (Neelam) occur in a range of blue shades, with certain undertones of violet as well.
Authenticity assessment also involves the examination of inclusions. Gemstones may contain various types of inclusions like feathers, needles, or crystals. Even high-quality coloured stones might have some inclusions visible under a 10x magnification. It is worth noting that coloured gemstones appearing entirely free of inclusions could potentially be imitations made of glass or synthetic materials, since such specimens in nature are exceedingly rare and command a huge value premium.
By considering the spectrum of colours within each gemstone and thoroughly evaluating their overall characteristics, including the presence of inclusions, you can develop a deeper understanding of their authenticity and characteristics.
3. Pricing Considerations
Generally, genuine gemstones tend to be more expensive compared to their synthetic counterparts. Natural gemstones possess unique characteristics and are limited in number - making them highly valued in the market. On the other hand, synthetic gemstones are created in laboratories to mimic the appearance of natural gemstones, so their supply is virtually unlimited. While they may have similar visual and elemental properties, their manufacturing process allows for more affordable pricing.
The availability and ease of sourcing certain gemstones contribute to their relatively lower prices, while others, which are rarer and more challenging to obtain, tend to command higher prices in the market. For instance, when comparing 2 gemstones from the beryl family, aquamarine and emerald (panna), the pricing varies significantly. Despite both being beryls, the green emerald (panna stone), with its rarity and limited supply, commands a significantly higher price compared to the relatively common aquamarine.
When purchasing gemstones, it is crucial to be cautious of imitations or fake gemstones, which can be sold as genuine at lower prices. Some fraudulent sellers may misleadingly state that their (synthetic) gemstones have undergone treatments, come from inferior origins, or are of lower quality to justify low prices. If you come across a gemstone with a price that seems unusually low compared to its expected value, it is wise to approach the purchase with caution. Such suspiciously low prices often raise concerns about the authenticity of the gemstone, as they may be an indication of imitations or fake gemstones being sold as genuine. Therefore, to ensure the authenticity and value of a gemstone, it is crucial to conduct thorough research, engage with reputable sellers, and obtain certification from trustworthy gemmological institutes.
It is highly recommended to acquaint yourself with the common price ranges at reputable jewellery stores. This understanding will provide valuable insights into the pricing trends within the market, enabling you to navigate your gemstone purchase with confidence.
4. Assessing Seller Credibility
Before making any purchase, it is crucial to conduct thorough research on the seller to ensure their credibility. Look for positive reviews and relevant certifications to verify their reputation in the market. Prioritizing reputable sources is essential to guarantee the authenticity and value of your gemstone.
Trustworthy sellers go the extra mile to provide certifications for their gemstones, ensuring transparency about their origin and quality. They also prioritize customer satisfaction and aim to build trust through their ethical practices. On the other hand, sources that lack gemstone certifications should raise red flags, as they may engage in fraudulent practices, attempting to deceive customers and overprice their products.
It is equally important to review the terms and conditions, especially the return policy of any seller. Reputable sellers have clear and customer-friendly policies in place. Take note of the time frame for returns, any associated fees, and the condition in which the gemstone must be returned. It is worth noting that certain sellers may not provide a return policy for their gemstones. While this alone doesn’t imply fraudulent practices, it does raise concerns as a consumer. The absence of a return policy means that there will be no option for a return or refund under any circumstances. So it is wise to take this into account and assess the seller's trustworthiness before making a purchase.
In your search for a trusted seller, it is also worth considering their warranty or guarantee policies, which reflect their commitment to customer satisfaction. At Precious Earth, we take pride in offering free lifetime returns and a lifetime warranty for all our gemstones, providing you with peace of mind.
5. Ask for a Certificate of Authenticity
Gemstone certifications are typically issued by reputable gemmological laboratories or institutes that employ expert gemmologists. These certifications serve as documented proof of the gemstone's identity, origin, treatment (if any) and other attributes, such as colour, clarity, cut, and carat weight.
Look for certifications that are widely recognised within the industry. One of the most commonly recognized and respected gemstone certifications is issued by the Gemmological Institute of America (GIA). Other reputable laboratories include Gübelin, International Gemmological Institute (IGI) and Gemmological Institute of India (GII). Certain local labs also do a good job of providing gemstone certifications at a cheaper cost, such as the Kolkata Gem Testing Lab. Such certifications, however, should be reserved for gemstones of lower quality.
A sample IGI report on a Burmese Ruby
6. Seeking Expert Advice
Gemmologists are highly trained professionals who possess in-depth knowledge of gemstones. They can help you identify gemstones accurately and assess their quality, origin, authenticity, and potential treatments. Consulting a trusted gemmologist can be particularly beneficial when dealing with rare or valuable gemstones, as their trained eye can spot subtle differences that might elude an untrained observer.
Gemmologists often use various tools, such as microscopes, loupes, and refractometers to discern the characteristics of a gemstone. Jeweller's microscopes allow for a detailed examination of a gemstone's internal features, such as inclusions, treatments and fillings. Loupes, small magnifying devices, are another essential tool in a gemmologist's toolkit. They enable gemmologists to examine a gemstone's fine details like inclusions that might affect its value and appearance. Refractometers are used to measure a gemstone's refractive index, which indicates how light bends as it passes through the gemstone. By comparing the measured refractive index with established values for different gemstones, gemmologists can accurately determine the gemstone's authenticity.
In conclusion, the art of assessing gemstones before making a purchase is a skill that can be cultivated with practice and research. With each step, you'll grow more confident and knowledgeable, allowing you to make informed choices. Remember, anyone can learn to evaluate gemstones. So embrace the journey and trust your growing expertise to help you find the perfect gem.
